How to Make a Wooden Toolbox

One of the most basic tools in a survivalist’s toolkit is a good, reliable wooden box. This tutorial will teach you how to make one so that your next trip into the woods doesn’t end up being such an ordeal.

The “wood toolbox plans pdf” is a step-by-step guide to making your own wooden toolbox. It includes the materials needed, how to find the wood, and more.

The easiest option isn’t always the best. An open-top toolbox is ideal for carrying a few tools about, particularly if you are a visual person who needs to see things in order for them to exist. Pipe wrenches are lengthy and cumbersome to handle, so plumbers enjoy these boxes. I just placed up a few tools I knew I’d need in this box and devised a strategy.

I wanted to make something that could hold a couple of saws, a level, a few chisels, and anything else I needed. You may make your box whatever size you like; I made mine long enough to handle longer tools. Regardless of the size of your toolbox, the procedure remains the same.

Handmade wooden tool carrier estimating length pattern.

Materials

  • 6 ft. 110 lb. clear pine
  • 6 ft 16 ft 16 ft 16 ft 16 ft 16
  • 1 1/4″ diameter dowel, 2-4 ft
  • Glue for wood
  • 35-40 #6 wood screws, 1 1/4″
  • #6 screw pilot drill bit with countersink
  • Drill with no cord
  • Bit for Phillips screwdriver
  • Brace yourself a little.
  • auger bit 1 1/4″
  • Pull saw in Japanese
  • Sandpaper with a 120-grit rating
  • Plane for little blocks
  • Putty for wood (optional)
  • Varnish your work (optional)

Your toolbox has just six pieces of wood: a bottom piece, two side pieces, two end pieces, and a dowel for the handle.

Step One

Choose boards that are in excellent condition. You may need to sift through the pile to find a decent board free of major knots (little ones are fine, they add character). Take care in shipment if you want lovely, crisp edges.

Step Two

Make a decision on the size of your box. I opted to make the inner length of my box 36″ to accommodate longer equipment such as a handsaw, level, and so on. To make sure the tools would fit in the toolbox, I lay them out.

the third step

Check to see whether your timber is square. Because not every timber has square ends, any imperfections may show up throughout assembly. Mark a new line an inch or so from the board’s ends with a t-square and trim off. You are not required to do so, but it is a good habit to develop, particularly when you witness what occurs when you are fitting your final board and discover a 1/8″ gap where there should not be.

Step Four

Man sawing board on sawhorses with saw.

Cut and measure your parts. The box’s internal measurements were 36 inches. Because the end pieces will be capped at the bottom and sides of the box, I cut them all at 36″. Two pieces of 16 and a single piece of 10 are required. Cut them out after marking them with your square.

Step Five

Create and cut your final parts. Mark the location 6 1/4″ from the bottom of your 110 on both sides of the board.

Man using steel ruler on board piece of wood measuring.

Now measure 11″ from the bottom edge of the board and mark the halfway with your combination square.

Man using pencil compass on wood board.

Set your compass to a radius of 1″, which will result in a 2″ arc. Place the compass’s point on the 11″ mark. With your compass, draw a circle. The bottom portion of the circle is irrelevant, therefore I didn’t finish it. You’ll understand why afterwards.

 

Man using steel ruler on board piece of wood measuring connecting out radius.

Connect your mark at 6 1/4″ with the tangent of the arc you made with the compass using a straight edge. Rep on the other side.

Man using pull saw on piece of wood board.

Adjust your compass to a radius of 5/16″. Draw another circle with the point of the compass on the 11″ mark to mark a 1 1/4″ hole. Cut off the piece using your pull saw. Make a large point instead than trying to follow the curve. Your component is now free to move around. Repeat the technique until your board is square.

Man using pull saw on piece of wood board end piece rough cut.

Trim the triangle’s tip as close to the line as possible. It’ll only save you time in the end when you’re smoothing things out.

Man using pull saw on piece of wood board auger end piece.

Drill the hole for the handle using your brace and bit. Place the center screw in the 11″ mark and make sure it is centered on the bit. Your handle will be off center if it wanders. Turn your item over and complete the bore until the bit’s central screw pokes through the wood.

You can use a cordless drill and a 1 1/4″ spade bit if you don’t have a brace and bit, but you’ll have less control. If you follow this approach, remember to come to a halt halfway through, flip the board over, and complete the bore from the backside to avoid splintering the wood.

Men using a rasp for clean up the top of the side pieces rasping end.

Clean up the tops of the side pieces with a rasp to get a very clean radius.

Men using a pencil for templating.

For the second end piece, repeat the process. As a template, you may utilize the one you just created. If you don’t match everything up, you’ll end up with a lopsided toolbox.

Step Six

Man using steel ruler on board piece of wood measuring.

Connect the bottom board to the end pieces. You want to make sure you’re screwing into the centre of the bottom board since your boards are 3/4″ thick. Take a 3/8″ measurement and make a mark. Mark a line across the bottom of the sidepiece with a combination square.

Man putting 5 screws into wooden board.

I spread out five screws down the bottom, one in the middle and the rest evenly spaced apart. Drill holes for your screws using a drill and a countersink. Place your screws in the holes and tighten them until the tips of the screws just protrude through the end piece.

Man using hammer for screw taps.

Apply wood glue to the bottom board’s end. To set them, align the bottom with the end piece and tap with a hammer. Install the middle screw and double-check that everything is still in place. Some squeezing is beneficial.

Men connecting two pieces of wood into each other.

The bottom and end pieces should form a 90-degree angle. Rep with the other end piece.

Step No. 7

Vintage attach the side pieces.

Join the side pieces together. Dry fit the parts in their final positions and trim as needed. The end pieces should not be forced out of square, but they should fit tightly. Place glue around the edges of the side piece facing both the bottom and end pieces after it is tight and square.

Man using steel ruler on board piece of wood measuring.

Using the same method as previously, measure 3/8″ from the edge of the end piece to ensure that the screws go as near to the center of the side pieces as feasible.

 

Man drilling and countersink a few holes on the end pieces.

On the end pieces, drill and countersink a few holes. Drive the screws into the side pieces after double-checking that everything is in place.

Step No. 8

Vintage finished end dowel.

Fix the dowel in place. Through the two end pieces, insert the dowel. The dowel should align the end pieces with the bottom piece. One end of the dowel should be flat against the end piece. Make sure both ends of the dowel are square, then indicate where you’ll cut it on the exterior. Note that the dowel should be 1 1/2″ longer than the edge of your bottom board. Insert the dowel that has been cut into the end pieces. Slide the dowel to one side and dab a little glue into the hole, then do the same with the other side.

Vintage man drilling and countersink one hole in the top of the end piece on each.

On each side, drill and countersink one hole in the top of the end piece. One screw should be driven into both the end piece and the dowel. It will never move because of the adhesive and the screw.

Step Nine

All that’s left to do now is connect the bottom and side parts. The amount of screws you use is proportional to the toolbox’s length. Using the same method, measure 3/8′′ from the edge using your square. Every 6 to 8 inches, drill and countersink a hole. I wasn’t exact since it doesn’t important to me, but if you want to be, go ahead. Keep an eye out for the right squeeze out.

Step Ten

Vintage man relieving the side edges.

Side edges should be relieved. This isn’t essential, but I like doing it. A sharp block plane may be used to remove an unsightly corner that can readily ding up.

Eleventh step

Man using sandpaper at wooden tool box.

Hand sand the outer surfaces using 120-grit sandpaper. If you’re very picky, you can seal the screw holes with wood putty or wood plugs, but because this is a “back of the truck” toolbox, I didn’t bother.

Finishing the box is another possibility. It didn’t matter to me since we weren’t sitting in the rain. I did elect to use a Danish oil finish that penetrates the wood on the exterior, but that is entirely optional. If I were presenting this as a gift, I’d probably seal it in some way. If you want the wood to show through, use varnish; if you want something a bit more vibrant, use your preferred color paint. After any case, it will have a beautiful patina in 30 years.

 

 

The “wooden tool chest plans free pdf” is a great resource for anyone who wants to make their own wooden toolbox. The article provides detailed instructions and pictures on how to make the box.

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